Saturday, December 24, 2011

Crossing the Andes

After our stay in the northern part of Peru, we headed south towards Lake Titicaca and the Bolivian border.  On our way out of Cusco, we stopped by the village of Raqchi, site of the largest of all known Inca temples. 





 

The ruins of the Temple of Raqchi give little indication of their original purpose, but if size counts, then these are truly impressive. Huge external walls up to 40 feet high still tower overhead. Legend has it that the Temple of Raqchi was built in homage to the sun god, to ask his intercession in keeping a nearby volcano in check. The ploy worked only some of the time.




The site, with its huge adobe walls atop a limestone foundation, performed multiple duties as temple, fortress, barracks, market and storage facility. 


Baths built for visiting Inca royalty still function today, as Raul demonstrated.














Today, the Temple still has several functions - not just historical ruins, but also an artisans' market, a grazing area for sheep and cows, and a place to spot locals at work - and wearing traditional dress.


Here, too, is the Inca Trail, heading up the hill beyond the sheep.  Actually, we should say here is one of the Inca Trails - there were many - and today, there are more miles of trails in Peru than there are roads and highways.











 

From Raqchi, the road went up, up and up some more.  We travelled through harsh but beautiful countryside high in the Andes Mountains.






We spotted an old swinging bridge made of rope - it's over a dry ravine now, but there will be plenty of water in the rainy season.  Nearby there was a small cinder cone, an active reminder that this is a volcanic region.


Along the high plateau, there were no trees -- just llama, alpaca, potato farms, and an old church with a view of the snow-capped mountains reaching to 19,000 feet.


Signs of people were few and far between, but we weren't surprised to see a line of vendors as we crossed the Continental Divide at 14,200 feet.  We must be getting acclimated - the altitude was bad at all as long as we moved very carefully.  For sure, it was the first (and maybe last) time for having lunch at that elevation. 




On the way down the mountain, we stopped for a stretch break at the little town of Ayaviri.  This is an old community; people were living here a thousand years before the Inca Empire. We arrived just in time to see half the town heading for the church (Our Lady of the Rosary) for a festival - everyone was given a piece of bread and invited inside.  After a short visit in the church, we walked around the local market. Just a little local color...

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